
Lalibela
Eleven churches cut down into the rock, roof first, and still in use. The monasteries in the hills outside town are what most short visits miss.
Rock-hewn churches still in use, highlands above four thousand metres, a desert below sea level, and cultures that differ sharply from one region to the next.
Ethiopia is not an easy country to summarise. It has rock-hewn churches still in daily use, a highland plateau that climbs past four thousand metres, a desert lying more than a hundred metres below sea level, and dozens of languages spoken across regions that feel genuinely unlike one another.
It is also a country most travellers arrive at knowing very little about, which is part of why it rewards the trip. What follows is an orientation rather than a guidebook: what makes Ethiopia distinctive, which places tend to anchor a first visit, and how the regions fit together.
Ethiopia keeps the Ge'ez calendar — thirteen months, and a year that runs several years behind the Gregorian one. The day is counted differently too, which catches most visitors out at least once.
Arabica coffee originates in Ethiopia's south-western forests, and the coffee ceremony is still part of ordinary daily life rather than something staged for visitors.
At Lalibela, medieval churches were carved down into solid rock rather than built up from the ground. Eleven of them remain in use as working churches.
The Danakil Depression lies more than a hundred metres below sea level — salt flats, mineral springs, and a volcano with a persistent lava lake.
Where to go

Eleven churches cut down into the rock, roof first, and still in use. The monasteries in the hills outside town are what most short visits miss.

In the south-west, along the Omo River. Known for the communities living along the river and for weekly markets that draw people in from the surrounding country.

One of the hottest inhabited places on earth. Salt is still cut from the flats by hand and carried out by camel caravan, as it has been for centuries.

A UNESCO World Heritage site in the north, where the highlands break away in a long escarpment of cliffs and pinnacles. Gelada live here in large groups.

A former royal capital in the north, where a walled compound of stone castles sits in the middle of the modern town — unlike anything else in the region.

The capital, at around 2,300 metres — one of the highest in the world, and cooler than most people expect. Almost every trip begins and ends here.
Further east, the walled old city of Harar is one of Islam's historic centres in the Horn of Africa, and sits in a different direction again from both the north and the south.
Kinds of trip
We arrange private trips across the country. These are the kinds of journey we plan most often.
Ethiopia is not culturally uniform, and it is worth arriving expecting that. Dozens of languages are spoken across the country, and the north, south and east differ from one another in history, faith, food and daily life as much as they differ from anywhere abroad.
That variety is most of the reason to come, and it is also why a good local guide changes a trip. Someone who knows the languages and the etiquette can explain what you are looking at, arrange visits properly in advance, and tell you when something is not appropriate to photograph. Without that, a lot of Ethiopia stays behind glass.
Before you plan
Where to start
Browse the itineraries, or tell us what you have in mind and we will build a route around it.